Restaurant Reviews

On-the-go bagels and Moe

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Consigliere Keith reminisced about family rituals from his New York youth...

Classic breakfast, without the rush

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College buddy Jeff recently paid a visit, and I figured a dose of semi-rural Colorado hospitality would be a welcome respite from his usual routine as a Vegas casino executive. To meet my friend’s need, my venue of choice was Hygiene’s Crane Hollow Café...

Top-notch sushi in an unassuming spot

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Film aficionados will doubtlessly recall the scene in Pulp Fiction when criminal kingpin Marsellus Wallace assures hitmen Vincent and Jules that their vexing body disposal problem will soon be solved. Wallace informs his assassins that none other than The Wolf, a ...

Mary’s is not just for cyclists

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It was a blowout day. And I mean that quite literally, as friend Keith’s front bicycle tire suddenly popped with a thunderous bang. Taking quick evasive action, I swerved around him as he managed to straighten out his trajectory and keep his bike upright. Fortunately...

Middle Eastern eats and sweets

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There’s something inherently enigmatic about a restaurant calling itself Pickled Lemon, as this moniker raises more questions than answers. Is this a venue for citrus-based cocktails? Does the menu focus on fruit? Is this a cryptic reference to a Tina Fey character? ...

Experiencing Boulder Baked

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  I´ve recently enjoyed Between Two Ferns, a Web series featuring comedian Zach Galifianakis. Modeled after public access talk shows, Galifianakis conducts hysterically awkward, not-suitable-for-work celebrity interviews. An interview with Bruce Willis presents an ...

Leenie’s Southern Cafe is a bit more cafe than Southern

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Claiming regional or ethnic credibility at a restaurant not located in that region can be a dubious prospect. Sometimes it’s a genuine transplant bringing the recipes of their youth and culture to the uninitiated hinterlands; sometimes it’s just run by someone who ...

Upscale Mexican street food

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One of my pet peeves is the eatery that appropriates inexpensive ethnic food and gussies it up beyond recognition with little resulting benefit. Adding insult to injury is the establishment that jacks up the prices on affordable chow to something approximating the ...

Peep this

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It would be a lie to call Le Peep “Boulder’s best kept secret.” For one, the diner is a chain with dozens of locations, and it’s been in Boulder for 30 years or so. The chain has been around even longer. Then there’s the fact that it’s got a reasonable level of ...

Il Pastaio is food for the soul

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We’re taught in early language arts classes to write what we know. But in writing about food, the adage creates a paradox: When a...

Cheese Importers warehouse expands to offer more than cheese

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Cheese Importers’ warehouse was a huge hit from the beginning, because, well, cheese. But the bulk of the 35 years it’s been in business were spent in a literal warehouse in Longmont. It was a wonderland of cheese, though not as warm and inviting an environment as ...

Old favorites at the new Pinyon

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When they see a name like The Pinyon, Pearl Street passersby might mistake this newly opened venue for a place that serves Southwestern cuisine or, if one is a language scholar, a place to transcribe Chinese characters. Neither of these descriptions is entirely ...