Restaurant Reviews

In need of a warm up

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Boulder’s sunshine is legendary. Which makes its cloudy days hit that much harder. And when they do, Boulder’s wide variety of salads and smoothies just won’t cut it. Grey skies and plunging barometers demand comfort food...

Mateo is authentic, affordable high-end dining

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Mateo is the place you wish existed in the U.S. when you’re abroad, eating simple and wonderful food, so abundant that you hate yourself...

Hiding in plain sight

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Whether you like it or not, there is a perception outside of Colorado that steakhouses abound in this state. The assumption is that cattle farms abound out here, and that meat from top Angus and Kobe beef farms throughout the West is shipped to a bevy of hungry ...

A Canadian guilty pleasure on the Hill

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Despite its Francophone pedigree and deserved reputation as one of the most European of North American cities, Montreal claims surprisingly few culinary specialties as its own. Sure, there’s smoked meat, steak seasoning and wood-fired bagels, but these are reasonably...

Aged in the old country

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The first thing you need to know about The Cheese Course is that it’s almost absurdly pleasant. Outside, the sun roasts the asphalt of the parking lot as the traffic roars through the intersection of Folsom and Arapahoe, but inside you are hit with a blast of Tommy ...

Julia’s proves vegan can taste good

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While I am admittedly a carnivore, I’ve observed there are two main paths that vegan restaurants can follow. On one hand, there are the eateries that use soy and other non-animal ingredients to create compelling stand-ins for such products as cheese, chicken and ...

Savor El Salvador

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Comfort food’s a tricky concept. When it entered the popular lexicon a couple of decades ago, the term applied mainly to meat loaf, tuna casserole and other suburban midcentury staples; today, reflecting shifts in the American culinary landscape, it could as easily ...

Won’t you be my neighbor?

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Right as the server walked away with my order at The Kitchen Next Door, another arrived with the food for the table to my left. Though the modern interior decor, rich with wood and clean lines, made for a pleasant visual atmosphere, I spent the next 10 minutes ...

Simply satisfying

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After a long flight back from California, I needed something comforting yet not complicated to facilitate my post-holiday re-entry to the working week. Consigliere Keith had been kind enough to give me a lift from DIA, and Louisville’s Via Toscana, an old standby, ...

Simple and happy

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Panaderia Sabor A Mexico has been in Boulder since 2001. It’s sort of tucked away in a strip mall between an Asian grocery and an Indian grocery; a tax preparation company, and I think an insurance company? Its location is inauspicious at best, yet the Nieto family ...

Eating local

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When you travel, one of the first things you tell folks about your trip is how the food was. It’s just a simple way to engage your conversation partners in a talk about your trip, which we care about but don’t really want to hear about, and give them something to ...

Fettuccine a la ESPN

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Some things I’ll never fully understand, like string theory, the jokes in Lolita or why people pay Michael Bay to make movies. Sitting just below advanced calculus, and just above pickles on that list, is why otherwise nice restaurants insist on installing ambiance-...