Restaurant Reviews

The friendly, global curator

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I wonder what Teddy Roosevelt would think of a swanky wine bar. You are confronted with that question at Modena Wine Cafe in Longmont. It’s located next to Roosevelt Park, but more pertinently, its large windows open up to a Rough Rider-era Roosevelt, cowboy hat and ...

Snarfing it down

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My relationship with sandwiches has been ambivalent at best, due perhaps to their constancy as a lunchtime staple through my elementary school years. One unintended consequence of this routine is that I occasionally experience an inexplicable craving for Underwood’s ...

An authentic taste of old Europe in Boulder

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It’s not often that one draws upon the terms evocative or cinematic to describe a local dining establishment’s ambience, but in the case of Boulder’s freshly brewed Bohemian Biergarten, it’s entirely warranted...

Brunch at Boulder’s Brasserie Ten Ten

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Recently a pal insistently extolled the virtues of Brasserie Ten Ten’s weekend brunch, but I remained skeptical. However, I have been happily satisfied with this French-influenced eatery’s fine happy hour and have splurged on its seafood platters. So friend Wayne and...

Why do they even give you chopsticks?

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One of downtown San Francisco’s busiest lunch spots is Sushirrito, whose menu you should be able to ballpark from the name. Like the Wu-Tang Clan, its forearm-sized sushi rolls ain’t nothing to mess with...

A Niwot breakfast without pretense

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Many hold the Niwot Market’s Friday evening summer dinners in high esteem. However, it’s also worth noting that this hospitable family-run grocery also dishes out reasonably priced breakfasts and lunches throughout the week...

Murphy’s Grill has a few culinary tricks up its sleeve

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Murphy’s Grill 2731 Iris Ave., Boulder 303-449-4473...

Here’s the twist

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There’s a surprising amount of room onboard Louise. Chef Michael DeBoer and his wife Lori bought the old and deteriorating truck, which had lived a life as the famed Cheese Louise mobile restaurant. It died of having a hole in the floor underneath the driver’s seat, ...

Chinese-American standbys

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I’ve finally taken a “If you can’t beat, join ‘em” tack to my critical assessment of local Chinese restaurants. No longer do I hold Boulder eateries to the same standard of the Bay Area joints of my youth. Why? Because for the most part, establishments around here ...

ChopHouse on the cheap

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No one would characterize...

Pizzeria Locale gives Bay-area pizza a whirl

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Boulder’s Pizzeria Locale has been in business almost two years, and has solidified its position as a go-to spot for wood-fired, Naples-style pie. Starters such as arancini, an addictingly rich fried melding of risotto and cheese, and desserts like the sensual ...

A well-designed and hospitable Kasa

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You’d be hard-pressed to find a restaurant in Boulder with a more conscious design aesthetic than the Japanese eatery known as Kasa Japanese Grill. Decor here is anchored by leafy trees painted monochromatic white, setting off light hardwood floors in a cheerful, ...