Restaurant Reviews

Back to basics

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You don’t need a Wayback Machine to know that the ancient Roman forebears of today’s Italian cookbook writers embraced the bedrock principle of cooking seasonal ingredients of top quality. These scribes advised that spices and other superfluous adornment were to be ...

Fully stocked

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You aren’t likely to stumble upon this place. From the outside, In Season Local Market in North Boulder looks like it could sell solar panels or dog food as much as it looks like what it actually is: a simple market with every type of grain and seed for sale, with an...

Close enough

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In so many ways Louisville is the opposite of New Orleans. I won’t enumerate them here, but think about it this weekend when you have some time. The point is that despite that difference, Louisville — with its growing restaurant scene and population of families of ...

Dive in

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The 28th Street Tavern is really good. I would call it underrated, but that would imply that there were people rating it. It is...

Worth it

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The food at Frasca Food & Wine was so good that, at one moment, I cried. It had never happened to me before, nor should it have — the only times one should cry while eating is if they’ve been rescued by a cargo ship and offered a hot meal for the first time in ...

Truth in advertising

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Aside from its distinctive flavor palettes, food has more abstract emotional appeals to the senses as well. Dessert tastes like joy. A giant chunk of meat roasted over an open flame tastes deeply, primally, invigorating, like surviving a plane crash or the thrill of ...