The secret

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Restaurant Reviews

More than a cold remedy

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Back in the ’90s, I’d hightail it down to Pearl Street’s New York Deli at the first sign of a cold. Reflexively, I’d order a big bowl of chicken matzo ball soup, sided with bagel chips, as a form of self-medication. The steamy, nutritious liquid would help clear the ...

Big Daddy (not Burl Ives) serves up quick, inexpensive meals

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It`s been difficult for me to disassociate Boulder’s Big Daddy Bagels from the 1958 film version of Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. In this adaptation of Tennessee Williams’ Pulitzer Prize-winning play, Burl Ives’ Big Daddy was a menacing sort, the dying patriarch of a fading...

An old-school diner with smart updates

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Nestled in Longmont’s Prospect neighborhood, Two Dog Diner is ideally matched to its vibrant, New Urbanist residential setting...

BlueBox Doughnuts is a sweet addition

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Boulder County has had a tumultuous relationship with the doughnut in recent years. Reputable chain bakers like Winchell’s, Daylight and LaMar’s have held court,...

The Peloton%uFFFDs pizzeria

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Nowadays, many big-city, high-end residential developers strive to install an on-premises destination restaurant as an inducement for buyers. Case in point is San Francisco’s Millennium Tower, a pricey residential high-rise that features the RN74 eatery, operated by ...

Simple and happy

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Panaderia Sabor A Mexico has been in Boulder since 2001. It’s sort of tucked away in a strip mall between an Asian grocery and an Indian grocery; a tax preparation company, and I think an insurance company? Its location is inauspicious at best, yet the Nieto family ...

SALT’s chocolate tart: a recipe for forgiveness

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My dining companion and I dressed in our finest for SALT. But not just because it’s a rustically chic eatery on Pearl Street in downtown Boulder designed by co-owner Carol Vilate. We hoped our dapper appearance disguised our secret, ugly desire: To gorge on more ...

Empire’s main dishes deliver

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Over the past few years, downtown Louisville’s dining options have grown impressively, and the Empire Restaurant and Lounge is one of this burg’s top spots for fine dining in a relaxed setting. While this space can accommodate many diners, it feels smaller and more ...

Making culinary connections

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The Culinary Connectors concept is simple — up to 10 diners pay $99 to tour three restaurants in an afternoon, with each stop lasting approximately one hour. Each visit affords an opportunity to sample menu and wine highlights, as well as converse with chefs. But...

Making room for high-end steak

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Word was the Lady in Gray wanted to meet. She’s my counterpart at our cross-town rival, the Obscura, or whatever it’s called, and she thought it would be interesting if we reviewed a place together. She made reservations at the new Pearl Street Steak Room. I got ...

Mainlining cured meats and cheeses

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Back in the ’70s, Dad would often return from overseas business trips with his battered black briefcase freighted not with paperwork, but culinary treasures. Returning from Lisbon, Dad once brought back an enigmatic hunk of salted meat. “It’s Portuguese prosciutto,” ...

Going samurai at Alfalfa’s

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The standard-issue American breakfast of bacon and eggs traces its lineage back to its British ancestor, the “full English.” While some breakfasts may focus on sweet pastries and not much more than a tipple of coffee, the Anglo-American approach embraces both  ...