Restaurant Reviews
More than a cold remedy
Back in the ’90s, I’d hightail it down to Pearl Street’s New York Deli at the first sign of a cold. Reflexively, I’d order a big bowl of chicken matzo ball soup, sided with bagel chips, as a form of self-medication. The steamy, nutritious liquid would help clear the ...
That place
Though the specific locale is different for everyone, we all have that place, the one you drive past nearly everywhere you go, thinking to yourself, “I should stop in some time,” but keep driving past for at least another six to eight months. You know where I’m ...
A soft spot for Indian food
Located in a mall near the multiplex movie theater and home improvement monoliths of Louisville, Delhi Darbar possesses a provenance familiar to those who’ve been in the area for a while...
A good bite
Out of the disemboweled corpse of a failed Chili’s emerged the shiny new Murphy’s Tap House in Louisville earlier this month. And though there are definite similarities in the skeletal structure of the two restaurants, Murphy’s Tap House has done enough in its ...
Cafe meets bistro in Longmont
A friend recently analogized that Boulder is to Longmont as Manhattan is to Brooklyn. From a dining standpoint, there’s more than a grain of truth in this analogy. Boulder, like Manhattan, has more than its fair share of press-worthy, high-buck eateries whose prices ...
Farmer Girl Community Bistro seeks to elevate simple
Often in this column I’ll praise a restaurant for preparing food simply. It’s always a feat when a chef lets ingredients sing their own...
Can’t complain
As applied to restaurants no less than to novels or films, the adjective “critic-proof ” is usually a backhanded compliment, acknowledging the consumer savvy rather than the craftsmanship of the producer in question. There’s just no point in arguing with the easy ...
Happy Mateo hour
At Mateo’s happy hour, dubbed “après,” you can convene your own Pearl Street Algonquin Roundtable on the cheap between 5 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. Indeed, that’s what I attempted to do, by inviting author friend Lisa and her husband Peter, a therapist and practitioner ...
A kitchen that deserves the hype
It’s inevitable that any time a national publication puts out a piece on the Boulder food scene, Pearl Street’s The Kitchen gets a shout-out. This eatery, along with three or four others, always gets the press, making out-of-towners wonder if there’s anywhere else ...
Shamane’s make sha-magic in your sha-mouth
Boulder’s baked goods mainstay, Shamane’s Bake Shop, will celebrate its 10th anniversary this year...
Where in the world?
There’s something about the term “international” that makes it a sort of red flag when judging a restaurant by its menu cover. It’s understandable prejudice on one hand — jack-ofall-trades, master of none, bringing to mind half-assed buffets and ubiquitous houses of ...


















