Restaurant Reviews

Southern Indian seasonings

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One of my more ill-advised college misadventures involved a midnight competition with a classmate to see who could consume the most Tabasco sauce straight. While I prevailed, I learned a valuable lesson (actually one of several) in that heat for heat’s sake isn’t a ...

Mediterranean simplicity

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Sometimes all you want to eat is something cheap, quick and simple. Boulder’s Mediterranean Market fits this description to a T with the added bonus of dishing out unpretentious ethnic cuisine. Trappings here are basic and functional, and true to this establishment’s...

Add Salt to your list

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Downtown Boulder’s Salt packs them in during weekday lunches, and other restaurants would be ecstatic to have comparable crowds at Friday dinner. One downside of this popularity is that consigliere Keith and I weren’t able to get a proper table in this venue, which ...

Creation Story

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Creativity is paramount in the coffee game. Hell, creativity is the coffee game. Now, the folks at Folger’s would have you believe it’s about ease, and the hipsters downtown would have you believe it’s all about Bunsen burners and science bottles. But at its core, ...

Back to the basics

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Mara had a bee in her bonnet vis a vis biscuits. Solicitous friend that I am, I proposed a weekend morning’s excursion to Hygiene, where we could sample the rustic charms of the Crane Hollow Cafe. Resembling more of a lived-in cottage than a sleek diner, this homey ...

Experience Mediterranean gigantism at its tastiest

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When thinking of places to eat, it’s unlikely that a deli counter inside a convenience store in the drunk epicenter of University Hill is high on the list...

Going mod

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When a restaurant is named Modmarket, one expects a certain menu and ambience distinct from say, a place called the Doofusateria. Indeed, this Boulder quick-serve outpost serves fresh and healthy flatbread pizzas, salads and soups in a Twenty Ninth Street Mall spot...

Red Rock Coffeehouse checks a lot of boxes

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While recently promoting her latest book, Patti Smith detoured and talked about her love of cafes, an affinity that started in the ’60s. “Back then,...

The return of succulent sushi

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About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont’s Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened ...

Doing happy hour in style at Jill’s in the St Julien

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Hotels are not on the average diner’s radar. But Jill’s at the St Julien in Boulder ought to be. A boutique hotel in the style Colorado does best — casually elegant — the restaurant carries this same kind of elegance, and makes it even more pleasing with the value ...

Can’t complain

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As applied to restaurants no less than to novels or films, the adjective “critic-proof ” is usually a backhanded compliment, acknowledging the consumer savvy rather than the craftsmanship of the producer in question. There’s just no point in arguing with the easy ...

Georgia boys BBQ may be best on the Front Range

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One of the required American barbecue trail pilgrimages is Dallas’s Sonny Bryan’s, a joint renowned for its meltingly tender beef brisket. There are several locations scattered throughout the city, but the cognoscenti know that the food is best at the original shack ...