Restaurant Reviews

A shrine to flavor

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In the 2004 movie Dodgeball, there is a scene in which the lead, played by Vince Vaughn, walks into the house of his love interest, Kate Veatch, played by Christine Taylor, for the first time and finds himself in a full-on unicorn den, surrounded by hundreds and ...

The Peloton%uFFFDs pizzeria

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Nowadays, many big-city, high-end residential developers strive to install an on-premises destination restaurant as an inducement for buyers. Case in point is San Francisco’s Millennium Tower, a pricey residential high-rise that features the RN74 eatery, operated by ...

Brunch at Boulder’s Brasserie Ten Ten

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Recently a pal insistently extolled the virtues of Brasserie Ten Ten’s weekend brunch, but I remained skeptical. However, I have been happily satisfied with this French-influenced eatery’s fine happy hour and have splurged on its seafood platters. So friend Wayne and...

Like a trip to the Middle East

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Visiting Boulder’s Arabesque, which features first-rate Middle Eastern food, I was fortunate enough to be joined by Ghada, who grew up in Lebanon eating Arabic food. She helped me better appreciate the subtle and authentic touches during lunch at this homey, family-...

Old-school home cooking

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 Feeling a chill in the morning air, I decided to take advantage of the remaining warm weather days by venturing up to Rocky Mountain National Park for some wildlife photography. Anticipating the taxing nature of this adventure, I sought ample morning sustenance with...

A slice of Italy

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Some local Italian restaurants trace their culinary lineage back to the venerable Americanized red sauce haunts of San Francisco or the East Coast. Alternatively, they may possess a more direct link to the old country without the hindrance of flavors compromised to...

Farmer Girl Community Bistro seeks to elevate simple

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Often in this column I’ll praise a restaurant for preparing food simply. It’s always a feat when a chef lets ingredients sing their own...

Improved decor, and the taste to match

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My friend Auden was visiting from the Western Slope, and it’s customary for us to visit an Asian eatery, since decent ones are mighty scarce in his neck of the woods. To be frank, things didn’t go so well the last go-around. Attempting to prove our foodie street cred...

Double vision

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Unsurprisingly, the Asian fusion restaurant was all about combinations. But not in the way one might expect...

Recreating a childhood Asian treat

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Noodles were always an integral part of my family’s Friday night dinners in Oakland Chinatown. Sometimes these restaurant repasts featured thick ribbons of chow fun rice noodles topped with slices of flank steak seasoned with salty black beans and hot mustard. If we ...

A distinctive Indian lunch buffet

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For those old enough, you may remember 1985 as a dark time, mostly because that’s when McDonald’s launched the McDLT. In today’s recycling-conscious age, the McDLT probably wouldn’t exist. For those of you unfamiliar with this environmental atrocity, this was a ...

A taste of the South

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As a longtime High Country denizen, I must admit a vague understanding of what constitutes the Low Country, although Pat Conroy seems to have something to do with it. However, a handy glossary on the back of Boulder’s new Shug’s Low Country Cuisine menu and a spot ...