Restaurant Reviews
The return of succulent sushi
About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont’s Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened ...
Farm to fast food
As the meat-eating members of the Simpsons once taunted Lisa: “You don’t win friends with salad.” But MAD Greens is giving it a shot...
Authentic Mexican Snickers bars
Being new-ish to town, it’s always interesting to hear what longer-term Boulderites focus on when describing various restaurants. For example, the way BW editor Joel Dyer summarized Mamacita’s on University Hill: “burritos as big as your head...
A soft spot for Indian food
Located in a mall near the multiplex movie theater and home improvement monoliths of Louisville, Delhi Darbar possesses a provenance familiar to those who’ve been in the area for a while...
Sampling the county’s top Asian food — in Lafayette
Arguably, some of the county’s best Asian dining can be found near the intersection of South Public Road and South Boulder Road in Lafayette. Further evidence for this increasingly solid proposition comes in the form of the Pho Cafe, another affordable strip mall ...
Pearl Street gets a new riff
In the late 1990s, I worked on west Walnut Street, a stone’s throw from the Pearl Street Mall. For lunch, I’d patronize now-defunct venues like Juanita’s and the New York Deli, and I’d often pick up morning coffee at the old Bookends Café. Like many, I felt a touch ...
Worth the time
Car traffic backed up foliage watchers — leafers — for a good half mile at the southern port of Nederland this past weekend. Human traffic backed up wing eaters — wingers — at the doorway of Wild Mountain Smokehouse and Brewery...
Formidable pho
Pressed for time, colleague Carin and I weren’t enthused to seek a blah lunch at a ho-hum sandwich shop or fast food joint during a recent journey to Broomfield. I also realized it had been some time since I had enjoyed a bowl of pho, Vietnamese beef noodle soup. ...
A solid addition in Lafayette
When I first moved to Boulder in the mid-90s, I often felt the need to trek down to Denver for serious eats. But now that our fair city is gaining a well-earned reputation for fine dining, the need to travel has dwindled considerably. Consistent with the old saw that...
Mateo is authentic, affordable high-end dining
Mateo is the place you wish existed in the U.S. when you’re abroad, eating simple and wonderful food, so abundant that you hate yourself...
Out of this world
When you order at El Fogon in Longmont, you’re supposed to look up at the old Spanish-only menu with pictures and relay your choice to the cashier. But in practice it’s hard not to look at the giant rotisserie of bright red meat behind the counter and point and say...
Back to basics
You don’t need a Wayback Machine to know that the ancient Roman forebears of today’s Italian cookbook writers embraced the bedrock principle of cooking seasonal ingredients of top quality. These scribes advised that spices and other superfluous adornment were to be ...