Restaurant Reviews
The tastes of Provence and beyond
It had been a while since I poked my head into Mateo, noteworthy for its fine charcuterie and cheese-laden happy hour and accessible South of France cuisine. Warm, sunny days evoke recollections of tooling around Provence’s gorgeous lavender-scented landscapes. As a ...
Happy Mateo hour
At Mateo’s happy hour, dubbed “après,” you can convene your own Pearl Street Algonquin Roundtable on the cheap between 5 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. Indeed, that’s what I attempted to do, by inviting author friend Lisa and her husband Peter, a therapist and practitioner ...
Give me home fries or give me death
Boulder Weekly last visited the North Boulder Cafe in 2009. And it’s not hard to understand how we forgot about it. Tucked into a nondescript shopping center on the edge of town, the North Boulder Cafe isn’t really on the way to anywhere, and its signage is pretty ...
Sun Rose Cafe does things Texas-sized
There I was, sandwiched in between some of my worst restaurant pet peeves (parents at the next table encouraging their child to stop screaming by encouraging it to watch a video on a laptop, and the dull ambiance killing roar of an overly loud refrigeration unit) ...
When in Roma
Stepping off the Pearl Street Mall into Boulder’s Antica Roma, one immediately notices the pains taken to recreate a Roman Holiday-worthy street facade. Exposed brick and other architectural details rendered in earthy reds and browns give this interior a retro, back ...
Ramen 2.0
The place with the kind of funny name had some kind of good food. Really good, actually. And it felt different inside the restaurant — somewhere between New York City hole in the wall and inoffensive Boulder chic...
Classy doesn’t have to be pricey
You know a restaurant is truly farm-to-table when the menu has to be printed daily. Don’t worry. The paper gets recycled. Chef Eric Skokan and his wife Jill deliver ingredients directly after a harvest from their 130-acre farm to sister restaurants Black Cat and ...
Worth the time
Car traffic backed up foliage watchers — leafers — for a good half mile at the southern port of Nederland this past weekend. Human traffic backed up wing eaters — wingers — at the doorway of Wild Mountain Smokehouse and Brewery...
Leenie’s Southern Cafe is a bit more cafe than Southern
Claiming regional or ethnic credibility at a restaurant not located in that region can be a dubious prospect. Sometimes it’s a genuine transplant bringing the recipes of their youth and culture to the uninitiated hinterlands; sometimes it’s just run by someone who ...
Don’t give this grocery sushi short shrift
Winter had finally arrived with a vengeance, and single-digit temperatures prompted me to investigate eateries offering warming soups that could serve as a satisfying one-dish meal. It was Sunday, and I remembered this is the day that Sachi Sushi, nestled in the ...
A simple question
On the far western edge of the Hill’s business district sits a building that used to be the Second Kitchen Food Co-op but has since been remodeled and made the home of Alpine Modern Café. It’s the restaurant of a company that publishes the Alpine Modern magazine, a...
A taste of the South
As a longtime High Country denizen, I must admit a vague understanding of what constitutes the Low Country, although Pat Conroy seems to have something to do with it. However, a handy glossary on the back of Boulder’s new Shug’s Low Country Cuisine menu and a spot ...












