Restaurant Reviews

Boulder’s Buddha Thai has a lot to like

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When I moved to Boulder several years ago, I asked the Comcast guy installing our cable for restaurant recommendations in town. Better to ask...

Fettuccine a la ESPN

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Some things I’ll never fully understand, like string theory, the jokes in Lolita or why people pay Michael Bay to make movies. Sitting just below advanced calculus, and just above pickles on that list, is why otherwise nice restaurants insist on installing ambiance-...

Eastern authenticity at Ting’s in East County

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I’m often forced to compromise at Chinese restaurants by eating less authentic fare like sesame chicken and cream cheese wontons — not exactly the stuff of childhood Chinatown dinners. Certainly Lafayette’s Ting’s Place has such dishes available (and I do enjoy them ...

Upscale Mexican street food

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One of my pet peeves is the eatery that appropriates inexpensive ethnic food and gussies it up beyond recognition with little resulting benefit. Adding insult to injury is the establishment that jacks up the prices on affordable chow to something approximating the ...

That place

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Though the specific locale is different for everyone, we all have that place, the one you drive past nearly everywhere you go, thinking to yourself, “I should stop in some time,” but keep driving past for at least another six to eight months. You know where I’m ...

Truth in advertising

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Aside from its distinctive flavor palettes, food has more abstract emotional appeals to the senses as well. Dessert tastes like joy. A giant chunk of meat roasted over an open flame tastes deeply, primally, invigorating, like surviving a plane crash or the thrill of ...

The food is the thing

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In the clown car kitchen of China Gourmet in Boulder, a dozen cooks are calmly doing two dozen things. Composed but busy, the kitchen is preparing Chinese-American standards like cashew chicken, mu shu pork and Szechwan beef alongside “Shanghai specials” like cold ...

An oldie but a goodie

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For folks that have been in Colorado awhile, Beau Jo’s Pizza is a familiar quantity where nostalgia is as much a part of the experience as its signature pizza. Many fondly recall chowing down on Beau Jo’s “mountain” pies at its Idaho Springs location on the way back ...

Baked on a budget

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Driving through Longmont, you might notice a bright flash of orange off the side of Highway 119. That’s how it starts...

A memorable culinary trip to Morocco

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Stepping out of a nondescript 28th Street parking lot into Tangier Moroccan Cuisine is a transformative experience. Once inside, one removes one’s shoes and absorbs the warm ambiance of a dining room packed with richly colored rugs and comfy cushions. Faced with ...

Step away from the buffet

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As part of my ongoing efforts to craft a taxonomy for Chinese restaurants, I recently realized there are two main angles to categorizing these eateries. The first is assessing the formality and pricing of the place, ranging from the come-one-come-all budget dive to ...

Rustic roots but sophisticated flair

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Like its French counterpart, the bistro, the Italian trattoria typically refers to a less formal eatery than a full-tilt restaurant...