Pizza in the backcountry

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Close enough

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Restaurant Reviews

Beers, burgers and Belgium

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West Flanders is a Belgian province known for significant events in both World Wars, notably the bloody fighting around Ypres and the Dunkirk evacuation. It also has a reputation for the peculiar practice of cat flinging. Lastly, and perhaps most relevantly, it has a...

Pica’s Taqueria

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Co-worker David Accomazzo was blunt in what to expect from Pica’s Taqueria: “hipster tacos,” he said...

Moby taco

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I search for tacos like Ahab searched for the great white whale; with a manic obsession few understand. “Why do you need tacos,” my friends wonder as we drive on into the stormy night, eyes peeled and hands lashed to the steering wheel. “Why don’t you?” I fire back...

An alternative to the Indian buffet

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Curry N Kebob fills a unique niche among Indian eateries by not featuring the ubiquitous buffet. Most options here cost a buck or two less than typical all-you-can-eat offerings, and service is reasonably fast, permitting those pressed for time to enjoy a ...

Pearl Street gets a new riff

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In the late 1990s, I worked on west Walnut Street, a stone’s throw from the Pearl Street Mall. For lunch, I’d patronize now-defunct venues like Juanita’s and the New York Deli, and I’d often pick up morning coffee at the old Bookends Café. Like many, I felt a touch ...

Go west for summer cookout fare

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Given the West End Tavern’s name, I’m never sure if I’m more likely to encounter the Pet Shop Boys or the Sons of Liberty there, given the old-timey connotations of a “tavern.” However, a recent visit made it abundantly clear that encountering either the male ...

Fresh air

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There might not be a better atmosphere in which to grab brunch in Boulder County than The Riverside Cafe. There are a number of Pearl Street verandas and Dushanbe’s beautiful interior certainly have their claims, but the natural and upscale patio at Food at the ...

A homey brunch at Colterra

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It was one of those chilly, grayish Saturdays that was a harbinger of upcoming winter. Too cold to go out on the bike and not enough snow on the ground to enjoy wintry sports, so why not go out for a leisurely breakfast? In this spirit, friend Justin joined me on an ...

Savor the Savory

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Fans of the early nineties TV series Northern Exposure may recall the mercurial character of Adam (played by Adam Arkin), an enigmatic master chef, an inhabitant of the town of Cicely. More recently, the science fiction series Eureka introduced Vincent, a gifted ...

A laudable weekend brunch

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Sunday morning was rough. I had injured my knee the day before, resulting in an ER visit and an unsure prognosis. My friend Ann suggested an ameliorative brunch, and I was game, but not necessarily up for one of those popular joints with a long wait and hip vibe. Nor...

A memorable culinary trip to Morocco

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Stepping out of a nondescript 28th Street parking lot into Tangier Moroccan Cuisine is a transformative experience. Once inside, one removes one’s shoes and absorbs the warm ambiance of a dining room packed with richly colored rugs and comfy cushions. Faced with ...

Close enough

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In so many ways Louisville is the opposite of New Orleans. I won’t enumerate them here, but think about it this weekend when you have some time. The point is that despite that difference, Louisville — with its growing restaurant scene and population of families of ...