Restaurant Reviews

Step away from the buffet

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As part of my ongoing efforts to craft a taxonomy for Chinese restaurants, I recently realized there are two main angles to categorizing these eateries. The first is assessing the formality and pricing of the place, ranging from the come-one-come-all budget dive to ...

The classic, comforting deli sandwich%uFFFD

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As prosaic as it is, the humble sandwich can possess comforting — if not tranquilizing — qualities. Consider the Peacemaker, a New Orleans specialty consisting of a baguette stuffed with fried oysters. Husbands in the region would give these to their spouses as a way...

The friendly, global curator

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I wonder what Teddy Roosevelt would think of a swanky wine bar. You are confronted with that question at Modena Wine Cafe in Longmont. It’s located next to Roosevelt Park, but more pertinently, its large windows open up to a Rough Rider-era Roosevelt, cowboy hat and ...

Niwot’s gourmet pizzeria delivers

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This is the sort of place you’d find in the Northeast,” declared Kurt, a Massachusetts transplant, as we took our seats inside Lefty’s Gourmet Pizza and Ice Cream. We had been bicycling for the last few hours on the back roads north of Boulder when this homey Niwot...

Out of this world

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When you order at El Fogon in Longmont, you’re supposed to look up at the old Spanish-only menu with pictures and relay your choice to the cashier. But in practice it’s hard not to look at the giant rotisserie of bright red meat behind the counter and point and say...

Making room for high-end steak

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Word was the Lady in Gray wanted to meet. She’s my counterpart at our cross-town rival, the Obscura, or whatever it’s called, and she thought it would be interesting if we reviewed a place together. She made reservations at the new Pearl Street Steak Room. I got ...

Sampling the county’s top Asian food — in Lafayette

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Arguably, some of the county’s best Asian dining can be found near the intersection of South Public Road and South Boulder Road in Lafayette. Further evidence for this increasingly solid proposition comes in the form of the Pho Cafe, another affordable strip mall ...

Deck snacks at the Rex

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For over a hundred years, the building housing The Louisville Rex has provided Main Street with entertainment of one kind or another...

Real ramen rocks at Bento Zanmai

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Rmen gets a bad rap in the United States, especially since most of us are only familiar with the instant dime-a-pack variety, weighted down with a surplus of salt and MSG. This is too bad, as authentic ramen has about as much resemblance to the starving student ...

Affordable excellence

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There’s no limits!” the staffer at Project Pie barked out to me, like he was cheering a sports team. “That’s what sets us apart...

Old-school home cooking

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 Feeling a chill in the morning air, I decided to take advantage of the remaining warm weather days by venturing up to Rocky Mountain National Park for some wildlife photography. Anticipating the taxing nature of this adventure, I sought ample morning sustenance with...

Snarfing it down

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My relationship with sandwiches has been ambivalent at best, due perhaps to their constancy as a lunchtime staple through my elementary school years. One unintended consequence of this routine is that I occasionally experience an inexplicable craving for Underwood’s ...