Restaurant Reviews

Making room for high-end steak

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Word was the Lady in Gray wanted to meet. She’s my counterpart at our cross-town rival, the Obscura, or whatever it’s called, and she thought it would be interesting if we reviewed a place together. She made reservations at the new Pearl Street Steak Room. I got ...

Keeping it hush-hush

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Groucho Marx famously sent a telegram to the Friars Club, a selective association of entertainers that counted the comedian among its membership. His wire went like this: “Please accept my resignation. I don’t want to belong to any club that will accept people like...

Real ramen rocks at Bento Zanmai

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Rmen gets a bad rap in the United States, especially since most of us are only familiar with the instant dime-a-pack variety, weighted down with a surplus of salt and MSG. This is too bad, as authentic ramen has about as much resemblance to the starving student ...

An old-school specialty shop

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I´m just old enough to remember that when my parents went shopping for groceries, their outings weren’t just limited to supermarkets. We’d go to locally owned specialty bakeries, produce shops and butchers, many of which are long gone, although two of them, Saag’s ...

Master of one

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Breadworks in Boulder is two businesses. That’s the only way to look at it. Well, the easiest way at least...

Baked on a budget

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Driving through Longmont, you might notice a bright flash of orange off the side of Highway 119. That’s how it starts...

Belgium, bikes and burgers

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Blending the disparate elements of cycling, Belgian gastronomy and burgers, Rueben’s Burger Bistro is a recent, if not risktaking, addition to the downtown Boulder dining scene. This space’s interior harkens back to its two-wheeled heritage, with a depiction of ...

Sampling the county’s top Asian food — in Lafayette

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Arguably, some of the county’s best Asian dining can be found near the intersection of South Public Road and South Boulder Road in Lafayette. Further evidence for this increasingly solid proposition comes in the form of the Pho Cafe, another affordable strip mall ...

Out of this world

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When you order at El Fogon in Longmont, you’re supposed to look up at the old Spanish-only menu with pictures and relay your choice to the cashier. But in practice it’s hard not to look at the giant rotisserie of bright red meat behind the counter and point and say...

Sun Rose Cafe does things Texas-sized

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There I was, sandwiched in between some of my worst restaurant pet peeves (parents at the next table encouraging their child to stop screaming by encouraging it to watch a video on a laptop, and the dull ambiance killing roar of an overly loud refrigeration unit) ...

Pearl Street gets a new riff

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In the late 1990s, I worked on west Walnut Street, a stone’s throw from the Pearl Street Mall. For lunch, I’d patronize now-defunct venues like Juanita’s and the New York Deli, and I’d often pick up morning coffee at the old Bookends Café. Like many, I felt a touch ...

The friendly, global curator

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I wonder what Teddy Roosevelt would think of a swanky wine bar. You are confronted with that question at Modena Wine Cafe in Longmont. It’s located next to Roosevelt Park, but more pertinently, its large windows open up to a Rough Rider-era Roosevelt, cowboy hat and ...