Restaurant Reviews

An old-school specialty shop

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I´m just old enough to remember that when my parents went shopping for groceries, their outings weren’t just limited to supermarkets. We’d go to locally owned specialty bakeries, produce shops and butchers, many of which are long gone, although two of them, Saag’s ...

Going mod

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When a restaurant is named Modmarket, one expects a certain menu and ambience distinct from say, a place called the Doofusateria. Indeed, this Boulder quick-serve outpost serves fresh and healthy flatbread pizzas, salads and soups in a Twenty Ninth Street Mall spot...

A solid addition in Lafayette

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When I first moved to Boulder in the mid-90s, I often felt the need to trek down to Denver for serious eats. But now that our fair city is gaining a well-earned reputation for fine dining, the need to travel has dwindled considerably. Consistent with the old saw that...

Taste in colors

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Each new plate arrived to the table as a twist of a kaleidoscope. When we drained the color from one, another arrived, swirling colors into a different combination and pattern. We remembered the food by its color, not by each dish, when we left Busaba in Louisville...

Good eats in the streets

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Popularized by such operations as L.A.’s Kogi, kitchens on wheels have finally hit the streets of Boulder. Far removed from the catering trucks of old, these outfits eschew stale plastic-wrapped sandwiches in favor of ethnic street food and comfort classics. Streat ...

Cup at Conor’s

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Unfortunately, pretty much everything I know about World Cup soccer comes from the mid-’90s pinball machine of the same name. I know that teams from around the world are involved and someone enthusiastically yells out “goal” in an elongated manner whenever points ...

Off the beaten brunch

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As friend Lisa and I drove on Hwy. 36 north of Boulder, we couldn’t help but notice the landscape’s arid harshness. Even though the sun was shining, we couldn’t shake a feeling of wintry desolation. Happily, the mood shifted for the better once we entered our ...

An alternative to the Indian buffet

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Curry N Kebob fills a unique niche among Indian eateries by not featuring the ubiquitous buffet. Most options here cost a buck or two less than typical all-you-can-eat offerings, and service is reasonably fast, permitting those pressed for time to enjoy a ...

A homey brunch at Colterra

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It was one of those chilly, grayish Saturdays that was a harbinger of upcoming winter. Too cold to go out on the bike and not enough snow on the ground to enjoy wintry sports, so why not go out for a leisurely breakfast? In this spirit, friend Justin joined me on an ...

A culinary effort to infuse with brews

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Back in the ’80s, before microbreweries and tap rooms had entered the public consciousness, my parents and underage self took a tour of Washington’s now-defunct Olympia brewery. While I recollect that the bar at the end of the tour was an ornate carved wood affair, ...

A high-end food court

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Neither good food nor subtlety was a strong suit at the busy suburban mall food courts of my youth. In those pre-Sbarro years, kitsch was king. Over-the-top Union Jack displays heralded the fish and chips stand, and garish, if not stereotypical, lanterns and kimonos ...

Good as it gets

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Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. This is how a proper deli sandwich looks and tastes...