Restaurant Reviews
Julia’s proves vegan can taste good
While I am admittedly a carnivore, I’ve observed there are two main paths that vegan restaurants can follow. On one hand, there are the eateries that use soy and other non-animal ingredients to create compelling stand-ins for such products as cheese, chicken and ...
Mainlining cured meats and cheeses
Back in the ’70s, Dad would often return from overseas business trips with his battered black briefcase freighted not with paperwork, but culinary treasures. Returning from Lisbon, Dad once brought back an enigmatic hunk of salted meat. “It’s Portuguese prosciutto,” ...
Solid Italian for a song
A sign outside Boulder’s Il Pastaio sums up the experience at this eatery, as it features the famed Leaning Tower of Pisa juxtaposed against the mountainous backdrop of the Flatirons. Assuming this graphic isn’t intended to serve as a vivid reminder of the power of...
Rolling with noodles in Lafayette
The brief email arrived late on Saturday afternoon from old friend Daniel, who I hadn’t seen in years. It was a summons to Lafayette’s Udon Kaisha, which he deemed “the best!” Not one to turn down such an invitation, I soon found myself in a strip mall chockablock ...
A soft spot for Indian food
Located in a mall near the multiplex movie theater and home improvement monoliths of Louisville, Delhi Darbar possesses a provenance familiar to those who’ve been in the area for a while...
A Diva brunch at Jill’s
Recently, Dessert Diva Danette Randall noted in her column that I ought to have her tag along on a review outing. Class act that I am, I thought it only right to invite her to a spot where a guy ought to wear a sports coat. So I asked her to join me for Sunday ...
Momo like mama makes
Less familiar Asian cuisines sometimes come off as lessthan-satisfactory knockoffs of their Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai or Indian counterparts. With this thought in mind, I wasn’t sure what to expect at Boulder’s Tibet Kitchen, and I feared the experience was going to ...
Formidable pho
Pressed for time, colleague Carin and I weren’t enthused to seek a blah lunch at a ho-hum sandwich shop or fast food joint during a recent journey to Broomfield. I also realized it had been some time since I had enjoyed a bowl of pho, Vietnamese beef noodle soup. ...
Step away from the buffet
As part of my ongoing efforts to craft a taxonomy for Chinese restaurants, I recently realized there are two main angles to categorizing these eateries. The first is assessing the formality and pricing of the place, ranging from the come-one-come-all budget dive to ...
All you can eat and more
There are few institutions we hold more sacred in Boulder County than the Indian buffet. Not only do we have a relatively high concentration...
Master of one
Breadworks in Boulder is two businesses. That’s the only way to look at it. Well, the easiest way at least...
A promising FATE for tavern food
"Smoke gets in your food,” declared John, considered by many to be the dean of local food scribes. Indeed, our lunch courses at the recently opened FATE Brewing Company were adhering to a certain fire-seasoned theme. A rich aroma of smoke wafted off our chicken wing ...