Restaurant Reviews
The tastes of Provence and beyond
It had been a while since I poked my head into Mateo, noteworthy for its fine charcuterie and cheese-laden happy hour and accessible South of France cuisine. Warm, sunny days evoke recollections of tooling around Provence’s gorgeous lavender-scented landscapes. As a ...
The Boulder Cork has aged well
Settings into a venerable locale such as the Boulder Cork restaurant, one can’t but help wonder if the dapper sports coat-clad gentleman at the next table might be a regular who’s come here for decades. Perhaps a younger version of him showed up here in the ’70s, ...
Brunch at Boulder’s Brasserie Ten Ten
Recently a pal insistently extolled the virtues of Brasserie Ten Ten’s weekend brunch, but I remained skeptical. However, I have been happily satisfied with this French-influenced eatery’s fine happy hour and have splurged on its seafood platters. So friend Wayne and...
Leenie’s Southern Cafe is a bit more cafe than Southern
Claiming regional or ethnic credibility at a restaurant not located in that region can be a dubious prospect. Sometimes it’s a genuine transplant bringing the recipes of their youth and culture to the uninitiated hinterlands; sometimes it’s just run by someone who ...
100% tasty and cheap
100% Mexicano, which has been open a little more than a month, is the latest local eatery to deliver an authentic “south of the border” street food experience...
Another hit for Big Red F
What I like most about GoodBird Kitchen, and what I like about its brother, The Post Brewing Company, and indeed what I like about...
A distinctive Indian lunch buffet
For those old enough, you may remember 1985 as a dark time, mostly because that’s when McDonald’s launched the McDLT. In today’s recycling-conscious age, the McDLT probably wouldn’t exist. For those of you unfamiliar with this environmental atrocity, this was a ...
Neapolitan’s dishes out first-rate East Coast-style Italian
My frame of reference for Italian-American food differs from most, coming from San Francisco’s North Beach eateries rather than the classic red sauce emporiums of the East Coast. North Beach fare differs from that of the Eastern Seaboard in that it tends more towards...
Crazy flavor
There is no shame in the occasional indulgence. As long as your actions don’t hurt anybody and you don’t cross the invisible line of no return, joy becomes you during the indulgence of booze, pizza, burritos, fried food and ice cream. Especially ice cream. And ...
Tavern fare with a twist
Whenever I visit a place calling itself a tavern, I half expect it to be populated by a clientele consisting of Revolutionary War colonists plotting their next move against the monarchy. More realistically though, I anticipate that a self-proclaimed tavern is an ...
Improved decor, and the taste to match
My friend Auden was visiting from the Western Slope, and it’s customary for us to visit an Asian eatery, since decent ones are mighty scarce in his neck of the woods. To be frank, things didn’t go so well the last go-around. Attempting to prove our foodie street cred...
Bru is unoccupied and unexpected
Crunch, sweet and spice meld together in the $5 chicken biscuit at BRU handbuilt ales & eats. The fluffy base soaks in the juice and traps the flakes from the expertly fried chicken. A combination of honey and hot sauce results in a cartoon-like mushroom cloud of ...