Restaurant Reviews

ChopHouse on the cheap

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No one would characterize...

House cure for the common appetite

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Café Aion on the Hill, unlike other spots in this neighborhood, is less grab-and-go student hangout than leisurely neighborhood haunt serving all three meals. Its combination of wood and brick, coupled with ample sunlight and modernistic seating, give it a quality ...

Good eats in the streets

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Popularized by such operations as L.A.’s Kogi, kitchens on wheels have finally hit the streets of Boulder. Far removed from the catering trucks of old, these outfits eschew stale plastic-wrapped sandwiches in favor of ethnic street food and comfort classics. Streat ...

A diner that Jack Reacher would like

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Long before Tom Cruise portrayed Jack Reacher on film, I had been reading the popular series of novels featuring this ex-military investigator’s suspense-filled adventures. Reacher, a hulking fellow well over six feet tall, (I had always pictured Viggo Mortensen ...

Southern Indian seasonings

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One of my more ill-advised college misadventures involved a midnight competition with a classmate to see who could consume the most Tabasco sauce straight. While I prevailed, I learned a valuable lesson (actually one of several) in that heat for heat’s sake isn’t a ...

Niwot’s gourmet pizzeria delivers

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This is the sort of place you’d find in the Northeast,” declared Kurt, a Massachusetts transplant, as we took our seats inside Lefty’s Gourmet Pizza and Ice Cream. We had been bicycling for the last few hours on the back roads north of Boulder when this homey Niwot...

A laudable weekend brunch

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Sunday morning was rough. I had injured my knee the day before, resulting in an ER visit and an unsure prognosis. My friend Ann suggested an ameliorative brunch, and I was game, but not necessarily up for one of those popular joints with a long wait and hip vibe. Nor...

The frontier

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Boulder’s strict growth boundaries make heading north on Broadway a bit of a cliffdrop, with the city ending abruptly as the street y’s into U.S. 36. But nestled right up against the edge is a restaurant that would be as at home in the urban core as it is on the ...

Carelli’s strikes right balance

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  At one end of the Italian restaurant spectrum, you’ve got your familyrun spaghetti joints, like the old line joints you’ll find in Louisville and North Denver. At the other, you’ve got your high-end spots, defined by pricey dishes like squid ink pasta and house-...

Double fantasy

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What with all the wood furniture and the fireplace and the quiet and the snow, Praha feels like a model of a restaurant in a miniature holiday village. The keeper of the restaurant is a nonagenarian with very poor hearing, and she struggles with the weight of our ...

Mexican that meets expectations

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One sip of chai too many, and colleague Carin plunged into a caffeine-fueled burst of manic energy where she was seemingly channeling the obsessive Carrie Matheson from Homeland (or as I like to call it, “My So-Called War on Terrorism”). She was bouncing off the ...

Top-notch sushi in an unassuming spot

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Film aficionados will doubtlessly recall the scene in Pulp Fiction when criminal kingpin Marsellus Wallace assures hitmen Vincent and Jules that their vexing body disposal problem will soon be solved. Wallace informs his assassins that none other than The Wolf, a ...