Restaurant Reviews
A classic diner standby still delivers
One does not live by New American locavore farm-to-table fare alone. Sometimes all one needs is a simple diner experience more suited to an unpretentious ’70s movie protagonist like Jack Nicholson’s character in Five Easy Pieces or Dirty Harry than some lightweight ...
Power lunching on Pearl for $10
"A foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of little minds,” famously wrote Ralph Waldo Emerson. Perhaps a modern corollary to this pearl of wisdom is “A foolish inconsistency is the hobgoblin of short-lived restaurateurs.” We’ve all fallen in love with particular ...
Roadside romance
When I went to school in Los Angeles, nearly a third of my meals were eaten at Cactus Taqueria, a tiny orange shack outside my apartment near Vine and Melrose. It had enough exhaust from passing traffic to function as a smokehouse, no shade, no seating, no bathroom, ...
The Peloton%uFFFDs pizzeria
Nowadays, many big-city, high-end residential developers strive to install an on-premises destination restaurant as an inducement for buyers. Case in point is San Francisco’s Millennium Tower, a pricey residential high-rise that features the RN74 eatery, operated by ...
A palace of taste
Nothing screams summertime more than cuisine from warm-weather climes, cool drinks and al fresco dining, all of which are available at Boulder’s Centro Latin Kitchen and Refreshment Palace...
Burgers and shakes with style
I used to mess with my friend Andrew by feeding him false reports that a popular burger and milkshake chain had set up shop in Colorado. As it turns out, that chain now does have a Denver-area outpost, but it’s far enough away to require advanced planning, and who ...
A laudable weekend brunch
Sunday morning was rough. I had injured my knee the day before, resulting in an ER visit and an unsure prognosis. My friend Ann suggested an ameliorative brunch, and I was game, but not necessarily up for one of those popular joints with a long wait and hip vibe. Nor...
Dive in
The 28th Street Tavern is really good. I would call it underrated, but that would imply that there were people rating it. It is...
Why do they even give you chopsticks?
One of downtown San Francisco’s busiest lunch spots is Sushirrito, whose menu you should be able to ballpark from the name. Like the Wu-Tang Clan, its forearm-sized sushi rolls ain’t nothing to mess with...
Off the beaten brunch
As friend Lisa and I drove on Hwy. 36 north of Boulder, we couldn’t help but notice the landscape’s arid harshness. Even though the sun was shining, we couldn’t shake a feeling of wintry desolation. Happily, the mood shifted for the better once we entered our ...
Authentic Mexican Snickers bars
Being new-ish to town, it’s always interesting to hear what longer-term Boulderites focus on when describing various restaurants. For example, the way BW editor Joel Dyer summarized Mamacita’s on University Hill: “burritos as big as your head...
Juiced
It’s hard to get excited about juice. They serve juice in little plastic cups with foil tops at hospitals and blood drives. At diners, orange juice costs $4 per thimble for some reason. Rare is a time when I find myself saying, “You know what I could really go for ...