Restaurant Reviews

Comfort food at Lulu’s

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Generally, the newest local restaurants shy away from the excess frilliness of haute cuisine and instead towards venerable comfort foods. For the past year, gourmet pizza has been all the rage, and folks can’t seem to get enough of updated pies with artisan ...

Mary’s is not just for cyclists

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It was a blowout day. And I mean that quite literally, as friend Keith’s front bicycle tire suddenly popped with a thunderous bang. Taking quick evasive action, I swerved around him as he managed to straighten out his trajectory and keep his bike upright. Fortunately...

Truth in advertising

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Aside from its distinctive flavor palettes, food has more abstract emotional appeals to the senses as well. Dessert tastes like joy. A giant chunk of meat roasted over an open flame tastes deeply, primally, invigorating, like surviving a plane crash or the thrill of ...

An authentic taste of old Europe in Boulder

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It’s not often that one draws upon the terms evocative or cinematic to describe a local dining establishment’s ambience, but in the case of Boulder’s freshly brewed Bohemian Biergarten, it’s entirely warranted...

Revisiting a revamped classic

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In some ways the Chautauqua Dining Hall might be to Boulderites what the Statue of Liberty might be to New Yorkers. Sure, you know it’s there, but you may not venture out there that much unless you have out-of-town visitors or are obligated to attend a special event...

Summer hang

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I like Wapos. They serve excellent, sloppy-style Mexican food. They have an outdoor covered patio where a quick afternoon drink can quickly become a full-blown night out when the temperature plays nice. They have a dozen types of margaritas and a bunch of Mexican ...

Red Rock Coffeehouse checks a lot of boxes

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While recently promoting her latest book, Patti Smith detoured and talked about her love of cafes, an affinity that started in the ’60s. “Back then,...

Can’t complain

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As applied to restaurants no less than to novels or films, the adjective “critic-proof ” is usually a backhanded compliment, acknowledging the consumer savvy rather than the craftsmanship of the producer in question. There’s just no point in arguing with the easy ...

An old-school specialty shop

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I´m just old enough to remember that when my parents went shopping for groceries, their outings weren’t just limited to supermarkets. We’d go to locally owned specialty bakeries, produce shops and butchers, many of which are long gone, although two of them, Saag’s ...

Good as it gets

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Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. This is how a proper deli sandwich looks and tastes...

Simple, organic Italian on Pearl

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Gone is the dark, cavernous bar setting where Charles Bukowski would have felt at home. In its place is a contemporary interior that lunch companion Patrick described as very “New York,” with its exposed brick, airy ambience and sculpted light fixtures. The Mexican-...

Open mouth, insert wing

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REO Speedwagon’s Hi Infidelity, the first season of Miami Vice and the John Madden-era Oakland Raiders are among my myriad of guilty pleasures. Chicken wings come close to making this list. However, many versions, either prepared indifferently or adhering too ...