Restaurant Reviews

Culinary ambition in north Boulder

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Featuring impressive Flatirons vistas and an organic design scheme with local stone accents that complements the view, north Boulder’s Restaurant 4580 has ambitions that exceed those of a humble neighborhood joint. Selections such as lobster mac and cheese, and the ...

The friendly, global curator

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I wonder what Teddy Roosevelt would think of a swanky wine bar. You are confronted with that question at Modena Wine Cafe in Longmont. It’s located next to Roosevelt Park, but more pertinently, its large windows open up to a Rough Rider-era Roosevelt, cowboy hat and ...

Frasca’s little brother shines

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A couple of years back, Fiat, Ferrari’s parent company, introduced a diminutive vehicle, the Abarth 695 Tributo Ferrari. Poised to couple compete with the Mini Cooper, this subcompact isn’t a Ferrari per se (auto enthusiasts can insert the Fiat joke of their choice ...

Back to basics

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You don’t need a Wayback Machine to know that the ancient Roman forebears of today’s Italian cookbook writers embraced the bedrock principle of cooking seasonal ingredients of top quality. These scribes advised that spices and other superfluous adornment were to be ...

Hiding in plain sight

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Whether you like it or not, there is a perception outside of Colorado that steakhouses abound in this state. The assumption is that cattle farms abound out here, and that meat from top Angus and Kobe beef farms throughout the West is shipped to a bevy of hungry ...

Go west for summer cookout fare

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Given the West End Tavern’s name, I’m never sure if I’m more likely to encounter the Pet Shop Boys or the Sons of Liberty there, given the old-timey connotations of a “tavern.” However, a recent visit made it abundantly clear that encountering either the male ...

Rib House still satisfies in its new digs

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The Rib House, formerly located in downtown Boulder, has relocated to University Hill, bringing with it loads of classic American barbecue meats perfumed with wood smoke. The bright new venue eschews the former formal dining room setting with a more casually down-...

100% tasty and cheap

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100% Mexicano, which has been open a little more than a month, is the latest local eatery to deliver an authentic “south of the border” street food experience...

An old favorite endures

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I’m not sure if this is more Pavlovian or Proustian, but for many normal folks, hearing a particular song transports them back to a particular time and place. For example, I’ll always associate the first day I set foot in Boulder in 1994 with Seal’s “Prayer for the ...

A taste of Kerouac

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Among the guys in my high school, there were two kinds of people. You had those who worshipped at the altar of The Who and the Rolling Stones, devotees of high-powered Brit guitar rock. I was one of those guys. On the other hand, there were the tie-dyed Deadheads. ...

Bar and grill bites that satisfy

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Coming off the holiday season, a full-course dinner may seem excessive after weeks of seasonal indulgence. Something lighter is the order of the day, and if it can be enjoyed in an unfussy environment without spending too much, so much the better. The reasonably ...

An authentic Mexican taqueria

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Whenever I go back to the Bay Area for family visits, it’s inevitable I stop by San Leandro’s Taqueria Los Pericos with one or both of my brothers. I suspect our visits are equally driven by the quality of the food as well as having us be seen in public for the ...