Restaurant Reviews

A simple question

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On the far western edge of the Hill’s business district sits a building that used to be the Second Kitchen Food Co-op but has since been remodeled and made the home of Alpine Modern Café. It’s the restaurant of a company that publishes the Alpine Modern magazine, a...

Leenie’s Southern Cafe is a bit more cafe than Southern

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Claiming regional or ethnic credibility at a restaurant not located in that region can be a dubious prospect. Sometimes it’s a genuine transplant bringing the recipes of their youth and culture to the uninitiated hinterlands; sometimes it’s just run by someone who ...

Parking your butt

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Not to disparage the noble roach coach, but for many budding restaurateurs, the food truck is mostly a vehicle (pun intended) to open a sit-down storefront, offering them a low-cost way to vend and market their chow. But like so many things, more dream the dream than...

Moving on up

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The ugly truth is that for all Boulder’s highminded foodieism, it’s no picnic finding a decent taco to take on a picnic. Sure there’s some decent facsimiles, but because of Boulder’s obscene rents and completely absurd food truck regulations, if you want the real ...

A taste of the South

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As a longtime High Country denizen, I must admit a vague understanding of what constitutes the Low Country, although Pat Conroy seems to have something to do with it. However, a handy glossary on the back of Boulder’s new Shug’s Low Country Cuisine menu and a spot ...

Stopping in, stepping out

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You’ll have to be OK with picnic casual: good food made simply by friendly people. If you like that, you’ll like Caspian Deli & Grocery — an unassuming Middle Eastern market on Pearl and 26th Street that does nothing but charm as soon as you walk in the door...

Beers, burgers and Belgium

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West Flanders is a Belgian province known for significant events in both World Wars, notably the bloody fighting around Ypres and the Dunkirk evacuation. It also has a reputation for the peculiar practice of cat flinging. Lastly, and perhaps most relevantly, it has a...

The return of succulent sushi

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About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont’s Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened ...

The tastes of Provence and beyond

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It had been a while since I poked my head into Mateo, noteworthy for its fine charcuterie and cheese-laden happy hour and accessible South of France cuisine. Warm, sunny days evoke recollections of tooling around Provence’s gorgeous lavender-scented landscapes. As a ...

Straightedge

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When I announced plans to review The Rowdy Mermaid, Boulder’s new kombucha taproom, a co-worker swiftly warned me reading on the Internet that kombucha, a sparkling fermented tea drink with live yeast and bacteria cultures, can cause “fatal diarrhea,” to which ...

Filling the belly at a Philly deli

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Many times, when you set foot in a Boulder-area deli, you’ll experience a certain degree of geographic predictability. Often you’ll see images of New York landmarks, such as the Statue of Liberty, to help build Big Apple culinary cred. North Boulder’s D’Angelo’s ...

Rolling with noodles in Lafayette

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The brief email arrived late on Saturday afternoon from old friend Daniel, who I hadn’t seen in years. It was a summons to Lafayette’s Udon Kaisha, which he deemed “the best!” Not one to turn down such an invitation, I soon found myself in a strip mall chockablock ...