Restaurant Reviews
The return of succulent sushi
About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont’s Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened ...
How to mingle
It may just be the holiday season, or that the name of the shop implies it, but the sandwiches at Naked Lunch had me thinking about parties...
Royal Indian dining on the east side
Over the $8.99 lunch buffet at the Royal Clay Oven (formerly India’s Clay Oven) on Arapahoe, British-born friend Andrew and I discussed the differences between Indian restaurants in the U.S. and U.K. He pointed out that more people in the U.K. work in subcontinental ...
Experience it
I cringe when the third course arrives at Gold Hill Inn. I cringe because I realize there’s no way to describe this unique experience without feeling gross and unqualified...
Fettuccine a la ESPN
Some things I’ll never fully understand, like string theory, the jokes in Lolita or why people pay Michael Bay to make movies. Sitting just below advanced calculus, and just above pickles on that list, is why otherwise nice restaurants insist on installing ambiance-...
Won’t you be my neighbor?
Right as the server walked away with my order at The Kitchen Next Door, another arrived with the food for the table to my left. Though the modern interior decor, rich with wood and clean lines, made for a pleasant visual atmosphere, I spent the next 10 minutes ...
An outdoor lunch at a landmark corner
True to its name, the Boulderado’s landmark Corner Bar has a menu featuring tavern staples such as chicken wings, nachos and burgers. Many of these are available as happy hour specials, but the bill of fare also reveals more ambitious choices on the fine-dining end...
Leenie’s Southern Cafe is a bit more cafe than Southern
Claiming regional or ethnic credibility at a restaurant not located in that region can be a dubious prospect. Sometimes it’s a genuine transplant bringing the recipes of their youth and culture to the uninitiated hinterlands; sometimes it’s just run by someone who ...
Barbecue-topia at KT’s Hickory Pit
Most places, barbecue is unabashedly redneck, just red meat doused in sugar-water and cooked in a manner that actively contributes to climate change. Vegetables are about as popular in this process as Stalin...
Not half bad
A recent experience at a national chain sandwich shop in Lusk, Wyo., made me realize why sandwiches aren’t often my first meal choice. My sandwich wasn’t terrible, it’s just that this comestible was strictly functional, with little artistry or care involved in its ...
Tossa Pizza strikes a balance
For some odd reason, when I first heard of Boulder’s new eatery, Tossa Pizza, my mind swiftly visualized Luigi Risotto reciting this restaurant’s name in a comical Italian accent...
Rolling with noodles in Lafayette
The brief email arrived late on Saturday afternoon from old friend Daniel, who I hadn’t seen in years. It was a summons to Lafayette’s Udon Kaisha, which he deemed “the best!” Not one to turn down such an invitation, I soon found myself in a strip mall chockablock ...


















