Restaurant Reviews

Making the familiar seem new

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Opened earlier this year, Louisville’s Bistro 4 provides an unexpectedly elegant venue to enjoy a thoughtfully prepared breakfast or lunch. Tucked away in a strip mall a waffle’s throw from the local multiplex, this eatery’s ambience easily rises above its prosaic ...

Fresh air

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There might not be a better atmosphere in which to grab brunch in Boulder County than The Riverside Cafe. There are a number of Pearl Street verandas and Dushanbe’s beautiful interior certainly have their claims, but the natural and upscale patio at Food at the ...

An outdoor lunch at a landmark corner

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True to its name, the Boulderado’s landmark Corner Bar has a menu featuring tavern staples such as chicken wings, nachos and burgers. Many of these are available as happy hour specials, but the bill of fare also reveals more ambitious choices on the fine-dining end...

Won’t you be my neighbor?

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Right as the server walked away with my order at The Kitchen Next Door, another arrived with the food for the table to my left. Though the modern interior decor, rich with wood and clean lines, made for a pleasant visual atmosphere, I spent the next 10 minutes ...

Middle Eastern eats and sweets

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There’s something inherently enigmatic about a restaurant calling itself Pickled Lemon, as this moniker raises more questions than answers. Is this a venue for citrus-based cocktails? Does the menu focus on fruit? Is this a cryptic reference to a Tina Fey character? ...

A homey brunch at Colterra

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It was one of those chilly, grayish Saturdays that was a harbinger of upcoming winter. Too cold to go out on the bike and not enough snow on the ground to enjoy wintry sports, so why not go out for a leisurely breakfast? In this spirit, friend Justin joined me on an ...

Classic breakfast, without the rush

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College buddy Jeff recently paid a visit, and I figured a dose of semi-rural Colorado hospitality would be a welcome respite from his usual routine as a Vegas casino executive. To meet my friend’s need, my venue of choice was Hygiene’s Crane Hollow Café...

Thunderbird beats the chains

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Thunderbird Burgers & BBQ faces the formidable challenge of being a locally owned business in direct competition with big multinational chains. To effectively compete, it needs to be at least comparable in price and, ideally, superior in quality. For the most part, ...

Fettuccine a la ESPN

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Some things I’ll never fully understand, like string theory, the jokes in Lolita or why people pay Michael Bay to make movies. Sitting just below advanced calculus, and just above pickles on that list, is why otherwise nice restaurants insist on installing ambiance-...

The return of succulent sushi

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About a year ago, I was dismayed to learn that Longmont’s Ichiban was suspending its sushi and sashimi service, as this was perhaps my favorite spot for variations on the raw fish theme. I was out of sorts until learning that a retooled version of Ichiban reopened ...

Experience it

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I cringe when the third course arrives at Gold Hill Inn. I cringe because I realize there’s no way to describe this unique experience without feeling gross and unqualified...

Thai a noodle on

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Suki Thai Noodle House carries on the proud Asian tradition of serving noodle soup as a satisfying and economical one-dish meal...