Cuisine
The classic, comforting deli sandwich%uFFFD
As prosaic as it is, the humble sandwich can possess comforting — if not tranquilizing — qualities. Consider the Peacemaker, a New Orleans specialty consisting of a baguette stuffed with fried oysters. Husbands in the region would give these to their spouses as a way...
The friendly, global curator
I wonder what Teddy Roosevelt would think of a swanky wine bar. You are confronted with that question at Modena Wine Cafe in Longmont. It’s located next to Roosevelt Park, but more pertinently, its large windows open up to a Rough Rider-era Roosevelt, cowboy hat and ...
Niwot’s gourmet pizzeria delivers
This is the sort of place you’d find in the Northeast,” declared Kurt, a Massachusetts transplant, as we took our seats inside Lefty’s Gourmet Pizza and Ice Cream. We had been bicycling for the last few hours on the back roads north of Boulder when this homey Niwot...
Out of this world
When you order at El Fogon in Longmont, you’re supposed to look up at the old Spanish-only menu with pictures and relay your choice to the cashier. But in practice it’s hard not to look at the giant rotisserie of bright red meat behind the counter and point and say...
A fresh memory
The best food transports you. Where Volta transports you is to a long, green lawn on the side of a lake for a reunion of friends and family on a late spring day. You can smell it — in the drink and in the food, and in that place in your mind where the senses create ...
Brewed for summer
For those of us looking to scratch that itch for a new spring and summer brew that isn’t bogged down by sweetness or fruit, the wait is over. Upslope Brewing Company has rereleased their limited summertime-only brew they call the Thai Style White IPA...
Austrian reds: Difficult to pronounce, but easy to drink
Blaufrankisch. St. Laurent. Zweigelt. The names of these Austrian red grape varieties do nothing to put consumers at ease. Wine is intimidating. And consumers...
Go west for summer cookout fare
Given the West End Tavern’s name, I’m never sure if I’m more likely to encounter the Pet Shop Boys or the Sons of Liberty there, given the old-timey connotations of a “tavern.” However, a recent visit made it abundantly clear that encountering either the male ...
Making room for high-end steak
Word was the Lady in Gray wanted to meet. She’s my counterpart at our cross-town rival, the Obscura, or whatever it’s called, and she thought it would be interesting if we reviewed a place together. She made reservations at the new Pearl Street Steak Room. I got ...
Step away from the buffet
As part of my ongoing efforts to craft a taxonomy for Chinese restaurants, I recently realized there are two main angles to categorizing these eateries. The first is assessing the formality and pricing of the place, ranging from the come-one-come-all budget dive to ...
Deck snacks at the Rex
For over a hundred years, the building housing The Louisville Rex has provided Main Street with entertainment of one kind or another...


















