There is much to adore about avocados. They are as creamy as mayonnaise, with a mild nutty flavor, and full of nutrients, all of which helps explain why avocado consumption in the U.S. has increased five-fold in the last 25 years. This acceleration is all the more amazing given that Americans mostly use them for guacamole and avocado toast.
Avocados are technically berries, aka fruit. As such, avocados are the fattiest, most protein-rich fruit on the planet. The Aztecs, who were the first people to eat avocados, named them āhuacatl, which means testicles, as they hang in pairs from the tree. More recently the fruit has been nicknamed the alligator pear, based on its shape and the color and texture of its skin. Avocados are prized for the moisturizing glow they impart to human skin when used topically. As a food, avocados are full of vitamins, and high in fiber, potassium and folate. They have anti-inflammatory properties and lower the risk of heart disease.
Americans go through about 100 million pounds of avocados during Super Bowl Sunday, which makes February the time of peak demand. But last year at this time, avocados were in short supply, thanks to some happenings in Mexico, the world’s largest producer. The Mexican harvest was uncharacteristically light. And to make matters worse, Mexican imports were banned by the U.S. after a Department of Agriculture inspector received a threatening phone call from a Mexican cartel member. The avocado ban lasted almost a week, during which avocado prices rose to a 24-year high.
Thirty percent of the world’s avocados are grown in the Mexican state of Michoacán, thanks to rich volcanic soils, climate and mountainous topography that enable avocado trees at different elevations to bloom and produce fruit year-round. Michoacán is also a center for narcotrafficking, and was heavily impacted by the war on drugs, which forced many cartels to explore new income streams. Avocados became known as “green gold,” and became a focus of cartel activities. The criminal gangs got involved in all levels of the avocado industry, including cultivation, marketing and transport. These activities include threatening, taxing, extorting and killing farmers, and sometimes taking their land.
The fact that one of our favorite foods can have negative environmental and social consequences is a dilemma, but it doesn’t mean we should quit avocados altoghter.
Ari LeVaux
In addition to benefiting organized crime, there is an environmental cost to avocados as well. A single avocado requires 37 gallons of water. And the avocado boom has led to deforestation, including a third of Michoacán’s oak and pine forests, where the monarch butterfly, an endangered species, spends the winter.
The fact that one of our favorite foods can have negative environmental and social consequences is a dilemma. But it doesn’t mean we should quit avocados altogether. Many avocado growers are small farmers who depend on the fruit for income. And those being harassed by narcos aren’t helped by consumers refusing to buy their avocados. A growing number of certifications, such as Fairtrade, allow consumers to use their dollars to leverage the cultivation of avocados in ways that are socially beneficial and environmentally friendly. So far, Fairtrade avocados amount to only about 3 million pounds annually, but the number of participating farmers and organizations is growing.
So, look for Fairtrade avocados, and explore some new ways to prepare them, like this chocolate avocado mouse.
Chocolate Avocado Mousse
With no offense intended to the taste of an avocado, a selling point of this mousse is that it doesn’t taste like avocado. It’s as thick as truffle ganache, and tastes like pure chocolate. Valentine’s Day lands two days after the Super Bowl this year. So if you are looking to hit both holidays, stock up on some alligator pears. If the pudding is too rich for your taste, add more milk and serve it as a milkshake.
2 ripe avocados
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/4 cup milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
A pinch of salt
1/4 cup maple syrup or sugar
Add all of the ingredients to a blender or food processor and blend until smooth. Scoop out of the blender, making sure to lick all utensils, and serve. (Serves 2)
