Restaurant Reviews

Straightedge

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When I announced plans to review The Rowdy Mermaid, Boulder’s new kombucha taproom, a co-worker swiftly warned me reading on the Internet that kombucha, a sparkling fermented tea drink with live yeast and bacteria cultures, can cause “fatal diarrhea,” to which ...

A shrine to flavor

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In the 2004 movie Dodgeball, there is a scene in which the lead, played by Vince Vaughn, walks into the house of his love interest, Kate Veatch, played by Christine Taylor, for the first time and finds himself in a full-on unicorn den, surrounded by hundreds and ...

Taking the temperature

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You’re lucky I got through,” my server at Centro Latin Kitchen says as he squeezed through the crowded patio and put a chili relleno platter down in front of me. “Everyone I passed wanted this for themselves...

Truth in advertising

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Aside from its distinctive flavor palettes, food has more abstract emotional appeals to the senses as well. Dessert tastes like joy. A giant chunk of meat roasted over an open flame tastes deeply, primally, invigorating, like surviving a plane crash or the thrill of ...

The Protein Bar out-Boulders Boulder

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The PR and marketing department for the newly-opened The Protein Bar has been lobbying BW for its approval, sending over a catered lunch and emailing this reporter offers to set up an official tasting, as if there existed some alternate universe in which the grizzled...

Feel the chill of the Golden Sun

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I expected Golden Sun to be a bit divey. It’s a big part of what made me seek out the Chinese restaurant tucked into an awkward corner space on a 28th Street strip mall. Chinese food is best served sketchy, and without a set of tracks to cross to the wrong side of, ...

Aged in the old country

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The first thing you need to know about The Cheese Course is that it’s almost absurdly pleasant. Outside, the sun roasts the asphalt of the parking lot as the traffic roars through the intersection of Folsom and Arapahoe, but inside you are hit with a blast of Tommy ...

Won’t you be my neighbor?

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Right as the server walked away with my order at The Kitchen Next Door, another arrived with the food for the table to my left. Though the modern interior decor, rich with wood and clean lines, made for a pleasant visual atmosphere, I spent the next 10 minutes ...

Authentic Mexican Snickers bars

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Being new-ish to town, it’s always interesting to hear what longer-term Boulderites focus on when describing various restaurants. For example, the way BW editor Joel Dyer summarized Mamacita’s on University Hill: “burritos as big as your head...

Chicken a la antlers

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The last time I went to The Post Brewing Company in Lafayette, it still hadn’t opened. What a difference a few months makes. The mess of ladders and power tools had been replaced with a buzz of activity as servers darted back and forth between the packed tables, ...

Barbecue-topia at KT’s Hickory Pit

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Most places, barbecue is unabashedly redneck, just red meat doused in sugar-water and cooked in a manner that actively contributes to climate change. Vegetables are about as popular in this process as Stalin...

Pica’s Taqueria

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Co-worker David Accomazzo was blunt in what to expect from Pica’s Taqueria: “hipster tacos,” he said...