The aroma of spices and herbs filled the dining room, but on the weekend evening I dropped by McCaslin Thai, it was too quiet to order takeout. Open only six months, the small, family-run eatery chose a challenging time to introduce its authentic fare to local diners.
Even though the Marshall Fire flames stopped before they got to the Louisville shopping center that McCaslin Thai shares with Loco Hermanos and Via Toscana, it was closed for a while.
My red curry was a compelling—read “yummy”—treat, a creamy sauce jammed with chicken breast slices, carrots, onions, red bell pepper, zucchini and bamboo shoots. Even ordered “medium,” the curry had a bouncy heat level that lingered, balanced by steamed jasmine rice.
For sheer comfort, nothing beats the eatery’s “drunken” noodles. The wide soft noodles have an almost dumpling-like chew mingled with thinly sliced, wok-fried beef and broccoli in a soy-accented sauce.
McCaslin Thai’s menu also includes green papaya salad, tofu larb, chicken momo steamed dumplings, a cashew stir fry with roasted duck, and tom yum soup laced with chilies, lemongrass, galangal and Kaffir lime leaf.
Another roadfood attraction: Gallo Italian Supper Club
Like the private East Coast Italian-American eateries that inspired it, Gallo Italian Supper Club and Bakery is sort of hidden at 3470 S. Broadway in Englewood. The parking and the entrance are in the back of this nice family-owned establishment. Gallo’s savory menu features the usual suspects ranging from arancini, stromboli and minestrone to clams linguine, chicken piccata, as well as pizza.
I made a beeline past the bar to the long glass counters lit by the afternoon sun enveloped in that sweet almond aroma. The eatery is justly famous for its cannoli, and trays of the classic, freshly fried pastry shells overloaded with sweetened ricotta cream, chocolate chips and nuts wait in a cooler.
I was entranced by the trays of traditional Italian cookies. On the drive back home, I dined on a pine nut-imbedded pignoli cookie, an apricot jam bowtie and a soft pistachio cookie. Best of all was a dark chocolate-dipped, raspberry-filled soft chewy macaroon. Next time I’ll go for the infamous lobster tail, a flaky, puffy pastry filled with chocolate mousse and dusted with powdered sugar.
Culinary Calendar
Ten cents from every sustainably farmed Emersum oyster shucked during March at Jax Fish House supports First Descents Colorado, providing outdoor adventures for young adults impacted by cancer. … National Pi Day, March 14, celebrates math. If you like pie, plan ahead for National Blueberry Pie Day (April 28), National Raspberry Tart Day (May 3), National Coconut Cream Pie Day (May 8), and National Strawberry Rhubarb Pie Day (June 9).
Boulder Recipe Flashback: Mijbani Indian Restaurant
Closed in 1999, Mijbani Indian Restaurant at 2005 18th St., Boulder introduced diners to the universe of regional cuisines beyond the standard dishes most Indian eateries focus on, thanks to Mumbai-born owner and chef Jessica Shah. She shared this recipe for vadas, or Indian fritters. Note that other vegetables can be added or substituted for the cabbage.
Mijbani Red Cabbage Vada
8 cups finely grated red cabbage
2 and 1/2 cups all-purpose flour, firmly packed
2 cups chopped fresh cilantro
3/4 cup vegetable oil
1 tablespoon salt
1/2 tablespoon (heaping) garam masala spice mixture
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh, de-seeded serrano chilies
Vegetable oil for frying
Chop cabbage finely in a food processor. In a large bowl mix cabbage, cilantro, flour, oil, spices and chilies together with your fingers until a thick batter is formed. If too wet, add a little more flour.
Heat about an inch of vegetable oil in a heavy cast-iron pan. Make sure the oil is hot! Make one test vada. When done, split it open to make sure it’s thoroughly cooked inside. Taste it and adjust salt, heat, and seasoning in the batter.
Use a small ice cream scoop to gently drop scoops of batter into the oil. Careful of splashing oil! You can make four to eight vadas at a time but don’t overload the pan.
Let them fry until dark brown and then flip. Drain on paper towels and serve hot with chutneys, raita, hot sauce, relishes and other condiments.
