Open and shut

Breaking down Boulder County’s remarkable year in restaurant and food

0
Boulder County food got a lot of press in 2023
A Portland Cream and a Maple Bacon Bar at Voodoo Doughnut in Boulder. Credit: John Lehndorff

2023 may be remembered as the year the restaurant scene in Boulder County came back to life. Reanimated by the inaugural Colorado Michelin awards, great new eateries opened in empty storefronts and epic local restaurant anniversaries were celebrated. Destinations like the Celestial Seasonings Tea Factory tour — closed by the pandemic – reopened, as did Wayne’s Smoke Shack, closed by the Marshall Fire. 

As the year ended, an acclaimed new Spanish eatery, Farra, began serving at 442 High St. in Lyons. 

The past 12 months saw beloved dining spots like Ash’Kara and Sushi Yoshi shuttered, the passing of significant food figures and the launch of cool concepts from Boulder’s first fungi-focused coffee shop and vegan wing establishments.

2023: Boulder openings, closing and changes

Almost every Boulder neighborhood saw the launch of fresh food establishments in the past year, several in just the past few weeks. Boxcar Coffee Roasters has opened a second Boulder cafe at 637 S. Broadway, the former longtime Caffe Sole space. Meanwhile, Sundry Goods, a new neighborhood market, is open at 3303 Bluff St. Unit RS-2. Just opened is Just Be Kitchen, an allergen-free, Paleo-oriented eatery at 2500 30th St., Unit 101. 

Geographically, 2023 saw the long-awaited Boulder openings of Maine Shack dishing lobster rolls at 2010 16th St. and L&L Hawaiian Barbecue making island lunch plates at 2323 30th St. Oregon’s Voodoo Doughnut finally debuted at 3210 Arapahoe Ave., albeit with a Boulder-imposed gray-painted exterior instead of the traditional pink.

Major additions to downtown Boulder’s reputation as a dining destination included Stella’s Cucina, 1123 Walnut St.; Postino Wine Cafe, 1468 Pearl St.; The Pasta Press, 1911 11th St.; Masas & Agaves, 909 Walnut St.; Bitty & Beau’s Coffee, 1468 Pearl St.; Old Barrel Tea Company, 1647 Pearl St.; and Creature Comforts, 1647 Pearl St.

New Boulder food concepts range from Myco Cafe, 1629 28th St., Colorado’s first mushroom-themed coffee shop, to Saucy Cluckers, 1911 Broadway, dishing plant-based “wings.” Coffee Ride, famous for delivering roasted beans by bicycle to businesses and homes, opened a bike-thru window for coffee drinks at 2516 49th St. 

Other Boulder launches in the past year include Pupusa Lover 2, 2525 Arapahoe Ave.; Heaven Artisan Creamery, 2525 Arapahoe Ave.; Crisp & Green, 1675 29th St., Suite 1272; Curtis Park Deli, 3000 Pearl Parkway; Wing Shack, 2690 28th St.; Jets Pizza, 2609 Pearl St.; and Rocks & Hops Brewing, 2516 49th St. 

The city also saw some sad closings and changes at familiar locations. Middle Eastern fave Ash’kara closed at 1043 Pearl St. The space has been filled by The Sophomore. A new Illegal Pete’s eatery has taken the place of the shuttered Murphy’s South, 657 S. Broadway. Elephant Fusion Cafe, 4800 Baseline Road, was replaced by Pony M Cake Asian bakery and cafe.

In a major rebranding, Pizzeria Locale, 1730 Pearl St., was renovated and reopened as Pizzeria Alberico. In Table Mesa, Kim and Jake’s Cakes, 641 S. Broadway, became Sweet Sisters Bake Shop continuing the gluten-free tradition. 

A North Boulder institution, Logan’s Espresso Cafe, 3980 Broadway, Ste 101, goes dark on December 31. Other closings include Fresh Thymes Bodega, 2500 30th St. Suite 100; and Uhl’s Brewing Company, 5460 Conestoga Court. 


Dining Revival on the Hill

The Hill district in Boulder underwent a significant dining upgrade in the past 12 months. New openings include The Dumpling Deli, 1310 College Ave.; Deun Deun Box, 1107 13th St., serving Korean cuisine; Nana’s Dim Sum & Dumplings, 1125 13th St.; and Ginger Pig, 1203 13th St.

Also new on the Hill is Alice and Rose, an Alice in Wonderland-inspired teahouse and cafe at 1301 Pennsylvania Ave., former site of Innisfree Poetry Bookstore.


Longmont’s 2023 restaurant boom

This year saw the dawn of many Longmont eateries. Kawaii Konbini, 332 Main St., started selling Japanese foods including made-to-order rice balls. 99Bar Saloon replaced Smokin Bowls at 449 Main St. and, while Dickens Prime 300 closed at 300 Main St., Roots Restaurant opened in that space.  

Other 2023 Longmont openings include: Kona Hawaiian BBQ, 26 Ken Pratt Blvd.; Juicy Seafood, 2341 Clover Basin Drive; Bowl Izakaya, 1232 S. Hover St.; JP’s Cuisine, 1631 Pace St.; and Spitz Mediterranean Restaurant, 1230 S. Hover St.

Bearded Brewer Artisan Ales began pouring at 1425 S. Airport Road while Primitive Beer, 2025 Ionosphere St. closed its doors on Dec. 24.

Other Longmont closings in 2023 included: La Vita Bella, 471 Main St.; Longmont Public House, 111 Francis St.; and Longmont Bakery, 900 S. Hover St. 



Lafayette’s culinary landscape expands

Suddenly, Lafayette is the place to open new eateries. Bison Bistro Kitchen opened inside the huge, new entertainment complex, Bounce Empire at 1380 S. Public Road. A soul food bakery, Cherry’s Cheesecakes & Delights, opened at 111 N. Harrison Ave. while Day Day Up Tea began pouring authentic Chinese teas at 535 W. South Boulder Road. 

Indian fare gained two venues: The Curry Corner food truck at 508 W. Baseline Road, and Gundruk – Taste of Nepal and India, 2770 Arapahoe Road. 

Other 2023 Lafayette openings include Punch Buggy Shave Ice, 400 W. South Boulder Road; Kapow Thai, 1377 Forest Park Circle; MECO Coffee Collective, 1280 Centaur Village Drive; and Panaderia Tradicional Y Neveria, 1312 Centaur Village Drive. 

Two longtime Lafayette gathering spots were shuttered: Front Range Brewing Company, 400 W. South Boulder Road Suite 1650; and Ting’s Place Chinese Restaurant, 1265 S. Public Road. An Italian eatery is planned for that space in 2024.


Louisville: New empanadas and pizza

Openings in 2023 in Louisville include: The Argentos Empanadas, 1030 E. South Boulder Road, just east of the railroad tracks; Shopey’s Pizza, 577 E. South Boulder Road; and Hummus Republic, 321 McCaslin Blvd. 

Two longtime Louisville eateries closed, Sushi Yoshi, 917 Front, and The Empire Lounge & Restaurant, 816 Main St.

In nearby Superior, barbecue experts Wayne’s Smoke Shack reopened at 406 Center Drive after suffering smoke damage from the Marshall Fire. 


The Michelin Awards Prime Effect

Everybody talks about the Coach Prime effect on the Boulder economy, but the biggest impact on restaurants was the announcement of the first Colorado Michelin awards. Frasca Food and Wine earned the city’s sole one-star award as well as honors for the best service staff. Basta and Ginger Pig took home Bib Gourmand honors, while Bramble & Hare and Blackbelly were noted for their sustainability efforts. Kelly Kawachi, Blackbelly’s head butcher, was named the state’s top culinary professional. Finally, Michelin Recommended restaurants in Boulder are Blackbelly Market, Bramble & Hare, Boulder Dushanbe Tea House, Oak at Fourteenth, Santo, Stella’s Cucina and Zoe Ma Ma.


The Passing of Culinary Legends

We remember the Boulder County food figures who passed in 2023: Bert Steele, beloved co-owner of the Niwot Market; Peter Underhill,
gregarious longtime owner of Dot’s Diner; Don Monette, who opened the Flagstaff House Restaurant; and Jules Lieb, longtime owner of Lafayette’s Morning Glory Cafe


A toast to Boulder’s enduring icons

Notable anniversaries were celebrated at Boulder institutions in 2023 including Chautauqua Dining Hall (125), The Sink (100), Village Coffee Shop (50), Great Harvest Bread Co. (40), Avery Brewing Co. (30) and Boulder Dushanbe Tea House (25). Happy 45th anniversary to the Boulder-born American Homebrewers Association, which helped launch the rebirth of homebrewing and craft brewing in the U.S.


Coming food attractions in 2024

In 2024, the folks who operate Oak on 14th will open C Bar and C Burger at 921 Pearl St., Boulder, formerly home to an Oskar Blues taproom. Cheba Hut and SkinnyFats will fill the former Lazy Bar & Grill location at 1346 Pearl St. 

Longmont’s beloved Winchell’s Donut House is set to reopen at 502 Main St. in January. 

The Diner Bar will open in the former Ned’s Restaurant space at 121 N. Jefferson St. in Nederland. 

Finally, with 74,000 square feet of dining and retail space and 116 fueling stations, Buc-ee’s will open its first Colorado roadside attraction in Johnstown in 2024.


Words to Chew On: A Peeling Belief

“Zen does not confuse spirituality with thinking about God while one is peeling potatoes. Zen spirituality is just to peel the potatoes.” — Alan Watts

John Lehndorff hosts Radio Nibbles weekly on KGNU. E-mail local restaurant and food news: [email protected]

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here